"What looks like a completely new waterside building of very nautical character is in fact the conversion of a former river police station - hence the name. It involved flooring over an internal slipway and dock to create extra floor space, and extending the building at first floor level over what was a flat roof. Works were designed to ensure minimum interference with the listed quay. All this has been done with a sureness of touch which makes the result seem inevitable - especially the waterside elevation with its large windows and balconies with canvas awnings looking out over the water, and a roofline evocative of shells, waves or sails - but instantly identified with water and ships.
Internally the impression is of cleanness of line and a limited palette of high quality materials. The upgrade covered both materials and performance - better thermal and acoustic performance, for instance. Unlike many bars and restaurants these days, riverstation does not have noise bouncing back and forth from surfaces and furniture. It is a delightful place to eat in, and a delight to look at from the water or Redcliffe bank. Creative re-use at its best."
Bristol's Twentieth-Century Buildings by Tony Aldous published by Redcliffe Press Ltd
"Now in its tenth year, this modernist eatery is a veritable veteren of Bristol's ever-expanding harbourside restaurant scene. It remains one of the city's most consistent places and the daily-changing menu rarely misses a beat when it comes to sound cooking techniques and sticking rigidly to the seasons. Ambitious dishes such as 'cassoulet' of roast monkfish wrapped in lardo served with crisp smoked pork and spinach, rub shoulders with simple but well-executed brasserie classics like deep-fried lamb sweetbreads in a herb crust with sauce gribiche and a well dressed watercress salad. Finish with American baked cheesecake with passion-fruit sauce or Ameretto bavarois with morello cherries. Light lunches and 'early bird' suppers are good value, as is the menu in the lower-level bar with its pleasant al fresco area slap bang on the water's edge. The international wine list is affordable and interesting, with ten house wines available by-the-glass (from £3.50) and bottle (£13.50)."
Good Food Guide 2009
'Lapping it up for a decade'
Despite his low-key style, Peter Taylor has played a significant part in this city's culinary renaissance since the early Eighties
It all boils down to consistency. Once a restaurant can achieve that, the rest should be plain sailing.
In my experience one of the most consistant restaurants in Bristol is riverstation, which recently celebrated its 10th anniversary.
This former Fifties river police station was transformed into a cool minimalist restaurant with fabulous harbour side views in December 1997, and has remained one of the most reliable eateries in the city ever since.
The 10th anniversary of riverstation passed without any real fanfare, but then this comes as no surprise as owner Peter Taylor has always been one of Bristol’s most modest of restaurateurs.
A chef who is happier to stay in the kitchen rather than try to become a local celebrity, Taylor has never courted publicity and would rather hide behind the stove then show his face at foodie events.
Despite his low-key style, Taylor has played a significant part in the city’s culinary renaissance since the early Eighties, when he was part of the team that helped to shape Bell’s Diner into one of Bristol’s best restaurants.
Although Taylor still cooks, he has a strong team behind him and head chef Tom Green (ex-Michael Caines at the Marriott Royal) has proved a very worthwhile signing over the past year.
Since the launch of Bordeaux Quay on the other side of the docks, there was always a worry that people would overlook riverstation, but this doesn’t seem to have happened and, if anything, its busier than ever.
On the evening I visited – an unplanned, unbooked dinner as I was off to see a show and simply passing the door – it was doing a brisk early evening trade.
This is one of those rare places where seasonality dictates the menu. As one of those food bores who knows when certain ingredients should be on the menu, I have to say that riverstation is always spot-on when it comes to featuring the most current seasonal stuff.
Of the eight starters and seven main courses, there wasn’t a dish that I didn’t want to eat, with the warm salad of sprouting broccoli with poached duck egg and blood orange hollandaise, and the breast of English Duck with creamed leeks, pommes Anna and red wine and sour cherries particularly grabbing the eye.
But it was the starter of deep fried lamb sweetbreads in a herb crust with sauce gribiche and the watercress salad (£7.50) and the chargrilled dry-aged English sirloin steak with maitre d’hotel butter and fat chips which shouted loudest on this occasion.
I don’t think I have ever ignored lamb sweetbreads when they have appeared on the menu.
At the risk of sounding like Hannibal Lector, I just love these thymus glands and these were as good as any I’ve tasted – perfectly cooked and creamy within, they were encased in a light, golden herby crust and served with a delicious sauce gribiche (a sort of thick mayonnaise containing red wine vinegar, shallots, hardboiled egg, Dijon mustard, chopped gherkins fresh tarragon and flat leaf parsley).
After the recent steak disappointment at another city centre establishment, I was nervous about ordering the sirloin. I needn’t have worried.
The thick slab of well-aged sirloin was cooked medium-rare to perfection and topped with a pat of slowly-melting maitre d’hotel butter (butter with lemon juice, parsley, salt and pepper) which enhanced the flavour rather than drowned it. It arrived with some warm sweet cherry tomatoes and some golden fat chips. It was everything the beef dish I reviewed last week wasn’t.
Much as I love rhubarb, I’ve been overdosing on it recently so I bypassed the rhubarb crème brûlée in favour of some amaretto bavarois with morello cherries and langue du chat(£5).
Served in an attractive glass, it was like a sophisticated Italian trifle, with the layer of sponge separating a morello cherry compote and the almondy, amaretto-infused mousse.
As part of the 10-year celebrations some of the more interesting top end wines are being offered at 15 per cent discount until the end of April.
I took advantage of this with a bottle of Tignaello, which wasn’t cheap but was the perfect partner for the perfect sirloin.
Happy birthday, riverstation.
Here’s to another 10 years
Bristol Evening Post - April 2008 - Mark Taylor
"Downstairs, with the terrace and the water-views, is the place to be", if you visit this striking-looking former (river) police station; on both levels - upstairs is more formal - the food is, for the most part, "interesting" and "well-presented".
Hardens 2008 Survey - Commended
This is an old river police building, right in the heart of Bristol's dockside. It is practically two restaurants in one. In the lower level you can get a quick fill in their deli style diner, whereas upstairs you can have the full dining experience in their a la carte restaurant. Both floors have extremely popular outside decks where you can relax and admire glorious views. It delivers high standards both in cooking and service. Food is fabulous. Well-prepared and simple at the same time-it's definitely worthy of its excellent reputation.
The setting is fantastic, Service excellent and great facilities. Food is top notch and portion sizes just right. All in all a great experience and well worth the trip.
Urbanevie
Excellent views across the harbour from this former headquarters of the riverside police combines with a downstairs all-day bar+kitchen with a glass-fronted restaurant above - the latter the recent beneficiary of a major revamp, softening the previous minimalist look. To-the-point cooking includes chicken liver parfait and red onion jam, deeply satisfying griddled swordfish with guacamole, lime and sweet chilli sauce, or good old ribeye with béarnaise and chips, with passion-fruit tart and blood orange sorbet for afters. The extended dock-side terrace is extremely popular during the summer months offering unrivalled alfresco in the city. One of Bristol's best.
Squaremeal
The design is pretty stunning, the food very decent with modern, innovative dishes but it is the location that really sells this place for me. Right on the waterfront- the name gives it away. The only thing I'd say is it may be a bit modern for some tastes and some may find it a little clinical. BUT if it's good food and a pleasant view, this is a good choice
Karen R
Had a very enjoyable birthday lunch at the riverstation. I started with a lovely risotto with asparagus and pea, followed by pollock and crushed potatoes, ending in mixed berry mess. We combined this with a lovely bottle of Taittinger Champagne and Sancerre which sufficiently whet the palate! Shame I had to return to work afterwards! The food was exceedingly enjoyable although I would have liked more meringue in the mess and the service was good. At lunchtime it did feel very "business-like" but nevertheless I would definitely go again.
Gregoir
